Whenever you hear The Amalfi Coastline beckoning you, you'd be smart not to ignore her. That whisper appears when you need her, revealing to you the sweetness of slowing down and drinking (no sipping) life in leisurely, mindfully, gracefully.
As an American, the concept of "Il Dolce Far Niente" is so foreign to the fast-paced nature of the status quo that it almost seems alien. But the Amalfi is not to be outdone in her allure or her persuasion. Within twenty-four hours you'll be forever changed, her charms seeping deep into your being.
The Amalfi is adored by many and for good reason. The views will stop you in your tracks, the emphasis on pleasure is almost hedonistic, the rich sapphire of the Mediterranean Sea will make you swoon and the combination of jasmine and citrus permeating the sunshined air will intoxicate you in all of the best ways.
While The Amalfi is not "off the beaten path" per say, and maybe at first glance isn't the ideal place for retreat style getaway, below are a few tips for how you can turn even the crowded streets of Positano into a chill-girl Summer Retreat.
When to Go:
X July and August: Avoid peak season if possible. This means July and August. They are still undoubtedly gorgeous, but both incredibly busy and you'll likely miss all the peace of the coastline while fighting the crowds (and you'll be stuck paying peak pricing).
+ May - Early June and September: are the perfect "pre-shoulder" season months. They will give you all the soft, warm loveliness of an Italian Summer and also thinned out crowds (and better prices).
Where to Stay:
Positano and Capri are beautiful, no doubt but I would avoid staying in both locations if you’re looking for more serene off the beaten path experience and would instead opt for:
Nerano
Sorrento
Atrani
Ischia
What to Do:
The most important thing to remember when visiting the Amalfi in the Summer is to SLOW DOWN. Drink it in, swim in the water, read a book, have an espresso (better yet make it a spritz). The glory of spending time in the Amalfi Coast in the Summer is "La Dolce Far Niente" Or the sweetness of doing nothing. Revel in it, its intoxicating. Here are some ideas to keep in mind while you are busy enjoying a nothing itinerary:
Rent a boat: boat days are always the best days (opt for a full day with lots of snorkeling and cave exploration)
Rent a Vespa in Ischia: to fulsome experience of the Island.
Visit the vintage bookstore in Ischia: (ImagAENaria). A great place to score rare vintage prints.
Yoga on the balcony: Yoga with a view anyone?
Read a Book at a Caffee: Nothing feels more sophisticated, except maybe sipping that espresso.
Best Beach Clubs:
You won't be disappointed by any of the beach clubs that the Amalfi has to offer. That said, some are better for swimming, or eating, or relaxing (depending on what you're looking for) than others.
The three below were my favorites:
Pupetto Beach Club, Positano - Breathtaking views and a great spot for beach pizza
Gardenia Mare, Ischia - Ideal Cove for swimming
Giardino Eden, Ischia
What To Eat:
Gran Caffee Vittoria, Ischia - Small Caffee Right when you get off the Ferry, get a Rum Baba (drool)
Maria Grazia, Nerano - This is were Stanley Tucci's Zucchini Pasta originated. Some of the most amazing food I had during my entire trip was here. I'd go all the way back for this place alone.
Lo Guarracino, Positano - Amazing spot for pizza (and even more amazing views). Also its' a stone's throw to Pupetto Beach Club (a win, win if you ask me).
Da Adolfo, Positano - Don't show up without a res. (They will laugh in your face) They lose some points for unfriendliness, but the food was incredible and the water taxi ride from the main port was so romantic, it was worth the cold shoulder).
Pop into any local caffee for espresso and/or an Aperol Spritz or two.
Lastly, In Ischia - and I'm hesitant to recommend this place because of how special it was. If you're lucky enough to find it, you'll stumble on an incredible old stone home set in the middle of an old vine vineyard overlooking the ocean that just happens to also be a restaurant (I use that term loosely, its a man cooking for you from his outdoor kitchen). You'll have your lunch made by an old Italian man who speaks little English, but will make you the most amazing pasta, pour you homemade red wine made from his centuries old vines and serenade you while he does it. There are very few signs to point you here, but follow Via Vecchia Campagnano on your way to Monte Epomeo and follow the signs for "Restaurant". This is cash only so bring Euros and get ready for one of the most special experiences of your life.
My best guess at coordinates can be found below:
(May the Gods smile upon you)
